Friends, Neighbors, Countrymen, lend me your stomachs! I come bearing news of great taste from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia!
This is my ninth month staying abroad at my home away from home, and my fourth time coming back to South East Asia to accompany my girlfriend/fiancee/wife Karen (other years 2006, 2008, and 2010) on an Asian excursion. For those last three years, I do not think she has ever offered to take me into the big city for some full day exploration, save a few trips to search for a phone (Sony Ericsson K850i, may you R.I.P). It took a letter notifying her family that electricity will be shut down for a whole day to coordinate temporary living arrangements in light of the tropical humidity and discomfort of sleeping. For this reason we decided on a nice hotel located right on the main strip of tourism in the city center of Kuala Lumpur - Jalan Bukit Bintang (translation: "Road Star Hill") as opposed to just picking one near my workplace.
Our choice of the Royale Bintang was quite a find, as it provided Karen and I the opportunity to explore with more flexibility as opposed to trying to catch the LRT back home before it got too late. Being in a prime location right on the strip, we found navigation around the city very easy and convenient, and also very safe. During our booking process, there were conversations to sample the food on a famous street known for it's scrumptious street food called Jalan Alor (translation: "Road Alor"). Some research online gave us a glimpse of the better hawker stalls within the "dai chow" (translation: "big fry", 大炒) restaurants at night. We slimmed down our choices and decided on the more frequently mentioned ones...
Our first foray into the foodie trip was a hawker stall called "Ming Kee" (明记) apparently known for its bbq pork ("叉燒"), and boy did it satisfy our pork cravings...
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1) One serving of 叉燒 - bbq pork
2) One serving of 白切鸡 - steamed chicken
3) One serving of 炸蒜生菜 - Boiled lettuce with fried garlic
4) Two bowls of 油饭 - Oil rice
5) Two bowls of 湯 - Soup
The best part was the 叉燒, which came very fresh as the chef had just brought it out of the roaster. The initial cuts provided a fragrant aroma of sweetness and barbecue. The meat came right off when you separated it with a fork and spoon, and the taste was like "buttery softness with crispy sweet caramelized charred skin" (as detailed by Karen). The chicken was was typical of your chicken rice varieties around Malaysia, but my wife said the texture was "too slippery" (跣) for her. I guess the seven years with my parents and family didn't prepare her enough for meat done just right....
The rice was nice, not too oily for its namesake but with enough fragrance that you could have one more portion if you can take it. Finally the broth was a 猪骨 ("pork bone") variety and provided a balance to the savory sweetness of the main dishes. Overall the cost of the meal for two people was RM33 (~US11), and together with a cool Soya (豆奶) and a Cincau (仙草), we paid RM37 (~US12). Not bad for a very filling meal.
Next up, we had ourselves a great dinner experience in the later hours of the day, and after some more searching and analysis, came to decide on a place called Restaurant Cu Cha (粗茶) since that was where the reviews, as well as the crowds, were heading. At this establishment we experienced a hybrid hawker/大炒 experience - usually at a hawker station you would order a la carte from individual vendors, and once the food came you would pay at that moment, for the 大炒 level, you ordered all your food, ate, and settled payment after the meal. Apparently this restaurant combines various vendors together and provides you with a fairly comprehensive menu.
The fried rice contained chinese sausage (臘腸) some type of beans and shrimp. They charged per head so there is no worries about over ordering, as they usually know how much to prepare unless you specify otherwise. The fried brinjals provided a fairly greasy interpretation of healthy eating, and was drowning a bit in that bad stuff, the taste was not too bad though. The crispy beancurd was not an ordinay tofu dish - Karen and I think there was some seafood mixed into it for a more rugged consistency. They gave mayonnaise and some sweet chili sauce for condiments. Finally the highlight was definitely the lemon cream spareribs. A small order contained six, which was ample for two diners. they deep fried some pork ribs and then smothered it in some lemony sweet dressing. There was a good portion or meat on the bones (with all due respect to the anorexics out there) and the sauce complimented very well.
At the end we also ordered a Malaysian specialty dessert called "Air Batu Campur (ABC), which is a localized shaved ice serving with various toppings. All you do when you get it is mix up the toppings with the shaved ice and syrups, and then enjoy after a hot meal to cool your palette Altogether the meal cost
Total for the meal, came to RM49/US16, plus dessert RM5/US1.5, came to just a smidgen over RM50 (US18). Not too shabby for a filling morsel with pretty decent service time and no-frills dining.
At night time, when Jalan Alor really heats up (in more ways than one), we had the urge to try the famous roast chicken wings that people kept raving about at Restoran W.A.W (initials stand for Wong Ah Wah). Again, this is a join venture type of establishment where multiple stalls make food for the patrons and I guess they share in the profits, while retaining their own share too (???) Anyways, we tried their chicken wings, and they were not too bad. You could buy a pair for RM5/US1.5, and they split the whole wing between the wing itself and the drum portion. We went double for RM10/US3 and we liked the nice roasting process they gave each wing. However upon eating at the hotel, we discovered some under cooking in some of the wings. Needless to say we didn't eat 100% of the snack. Overall not bad. It looks like they bathed it in bbq sauce or something, but in actuality they just marinate it, and let the mechanism do its just (although we wished it did a more complete job...).
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Finally our KL-excursion came to an end on Sunday morning, first with an okay breakfast brunch provided by the hotel, and an last-trip to Jalan Alor for a sampling of the roast pork 燒肉, this time at another frequently reviewed hawker station called Keung Kee but I do not remember the Chinese name for it. We decided to give a comparison test of the 叉燒 as well to determine if they are better than the ones we had at 明记 the afternoon before.
Our impression of the 燒肉 was that it gave a moist texture and didn't suffer from over-roasting that plagues other establishments, especially closer to home (Petaling Jaya, not Boston, MA...) There was a good serving again, and the usual rice plus soup combination definitely helped to soak up the greasy goodness. On the other hand, the 叉燒 definitely needed some more work to match the quality of the initial stall. Taste-wise, there wasn't much differences, still sweet, still charred, and still flakes off... however the meat was not as tender and we felt that perhaps this guy is better off staying with the roast pork. We weren't too disappointed in the results and tastes, the meal per person came out to only RM6/US2, and multiplied times two, and it's still a good deal. We would still pay for quality though...
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All in all this was a decent trip for us. We got to discover the true Kuala Lumpur food experience, not just the local area that has besieged us the last nine months =). I actually was looking forward to this trip, and in the end we both came away happy and sedated with the coma that only great food can provide and instill. We hope to make another trip, and try out other delicacies along the way after the year, as we have some other things to look forward to, and one of them is named... well... I guess you will all have to wait and see... here's to September 21, 2012 (+/- 2 weeks...). In the meantime, as Andrew Zimmern once said, "If it looks good... eat it!"
Kent 2012 August 12